In Search of Pangiallo, the Christmas Bread of Rome
For centuries, Christmas “breads” have been a tradition in every region and city of Italy. Genoa has its pandolce, Milan has panettone, Verona has pandoro, Ferrara has panpepato, Siena has panforte and Rome has pangiallo.
In America we are familiar with panettone in its traditional form and the more modern creative forms using amarena cherries, limoncello, pistachio, and chocolate cream. Pandoro (golden bread) has remained in its traditional form. You’ll find panforte, panpepato, panettone and pandoro at torronecandy.com but we are still searching for pangiallo.
Carol Field, author of the cookbook “Celebrating Italy” states that she wants to start a movement to bring back pangiallo, the Christmas bread of Rome. Contrary to its name it is neither golden, nor bread. It is a savory combination of nuts, raisins, spices, and candied peels, held together with apricot jam, eggs, and a minimum amount of flour.
Over thirty years ago a friend returned from Rome with a pangiallo. The aroma and taste were extraordinary. A slice of pangiallo with an espresso is Roman heaven. There is only one problem (or 2 if you are not a baker.) Pangiallo is impossible to find in the USA. We have been searching for years to add it to our list of Christmas breads and cookies. Very few places in Rome make it, and they have no interest in exporting.
I assure you – we will continue our search. In the meantime, I invite you to savor the products that are available. This year, there are many new holiday treats worth a try. Flamigni pistachio cream cake, amarena cherry cake, panpepato and Calabrian fig cake.
Great news for our Sicilian and Neopolitan friends: we now carry buccellati (cuccidati), reginelle sesame cookies, susamelle, roccoco, mostaccioli, and a full line of Sicilian cookies, biscotti and marzipan. We’re also especially pleased with our newest arrival from Naples – Sugna and Pepe (taralli with almonds, pepper and lard).
Let’s keep our fingers crossed and hope that 2025 will be the year we see Pangiallo on our website! If you can’t wait and want to bake it yourself, go to Italiannotes.com for a recipe.
A reminder – don’t get shut out. Calabrian figs are available. Put your order in now, as they are going fast.
Buon Natale from Tony Torrone!
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