Visting Sicilia - Manna Harvesting, Fiasconaro, and Tumminello

This past April, I traveled to Sicily with my mom and my youngest daughter. We spent time in Monreale, the town my mom’s family is from, enjoyed seaside meals in Cefalù, and wandered through the salt flats near Trapani. But one of the most unforgettable days of the trip was our visit to a manna farm and the charming town of Castelbuono in the Madonie mountains.

What is manna?

You may remember hearing about manna in the Bible—“manna from heaven” that sustained the Israelites after the Exodus. Manna is the dried sap of a certain species of ash trees. It has been harvested for centuries, and the trees still grow in the ash groves around Castelbuono in the Madonie mountains of Sicily. While the tradition of harvesting manna has largely disappeared, a few passionate people, like Mario, continue this labor-intensive craft.

Image from https://madonieexplorers.com/en/tour/meet-a-manna-producer/

Mario was kind enough to meet us on the morning of Pasquetta, Easter Monday, as his family was planning a picnic on the farm later that day. We traveled up a winding dirt road, and around a bend, we saw Mario waiting for us at the bottom of his driveway. We started a steep but slow walk up the rutted drive, stopping when he found interesting wild herbs and flowers, including clover and fennel, and to enjoy the beautiful views of the Madonie mountains. 

At the top, we entered the ash grove. Mario explained the process of harvesting manna, which requires patience, skill, and respect for the trees. During the summer, the mannalaiolo (manna harvester) waits for the perfect moment, watching insects and the weather, before making careful incisions in the bark. The sap slowly flows out, drying in long, delicate strands. Rain during this time can ruin the harvest! Once hardened, the manna is gently scraped off.

Mario shared how he earned the respect of older mannalaioli and was given his mentor’s special harvesting knife, a symbol of trust and tradition. Manna is used to sweeten local delicacies, like the biscotti we sampled in the small hut Mario built, and some local chefs incorporate it into savory dishes. We also tried it as a gentle hand scrub—a natural treat from the mountains.

Image from https://madonieexplorers.com/en/tour/meet-a-manna-producer/

Manna Historical Significance

Centuries ago, manna was a major source of wealth for Sicily, particularly in the Madonie region. Before refined sugar became widely available and affordable in the 18th century, manna was used as a sweetener throughout Italy. Families with ash groves prospered from its sale. When industrial sugar production took over, the manna trade sharply declined. By the 20th century, many groves were abandoned, and the craft of the mannalaioli nearly disappeared.

Today, only a handful of people in Castelbuono continue to harvest manna using traditional methods. What was once a common economic lifeline is now a rare, protected Sicilian heritage product. People like Mario are dedicated to preserving this unique tradition.

A Taste of Castelbuono

As our tour ended, Mario’s dog came to greet us—a fun reminder of our own pets at home! We climbed into his jeep and bumped back down to Castelbuono, where we strolled to the Fiasconaro store to sample traditional sweets from the Madonie region. After visiting Fiasconaro, we stopped by the Tumminello bakery. We carried their products a few years back and are delighted to offer them again. The family and workers there are the sweetest people. The bakery is not on the main street but please take the time to visit them! 

Producers like Fiasconaro and Tumminello honor this history by using manna in confections such as their Crema alla Manna, helping preserve and share a tradition that once sweetened all of Sicily.